Aug 19

Posted by: Matt Spenceley
19 August 2009 

Lorenz and I headed eastwards in search of big granite lines and the Bergell didn't disappoint.  It was my first time visiting the range and already on the walk-in I was awe-struck by the imposing, clean spires that rise out of wild coniferous forest.  The whole area felt more secluded and adventurous than the ranges closer to home.

The Sasc Fura hut is charming, lying in a small meadow amongst the trees.  We found quite a few parties with their sights set on the north face.  A quick walk towards the peak after dinner confirmed more teams bivvying amongst the boulders.

The candle commemorating Ricardo Cassin, who had passed away only a couple of days before, was still burning in the hut, and it seemed fitting to be attempting his famous original line.

The north face of the Piz Badile photo copyright andrea.it

The alarms set for an early start, an un-forecast thunder storm had the whole dormitory awake and caused much muttering as to whether it was still worth going.  Up for breakfast, Lori and I were determined to get on the route first, so leaving 2 cups of tea on the table, we sneaked out and made a break for it.  It wasn't long before we'd covered the initial snow fields and rapped down to the traverse ledge, this time almost completely devoid of snow.  Finding the first pitch wet, I led off until we could both move together, wandering about a little off-route.  As often seems to happen, we somehow tuned into the right line, and after 150m of moving together, were able to up the speed.  The crux pitches went quickly, the first of them offering a lovely corner.  Above, the route lies back for a bit before the chimney line that leads almost all the way to the summit ridge - a nice finale to the face.  Once on the arete, we passed a couple of teams completing the classic north ridge and took a good rest on the summit, happy with a fast but relaxed bout of speed climbing. 

The descent down the south face was relatively straight forward, with several raps leading to the morraine.  We then set our sights on lunch in the Gianetti hut - pasta and shellfish washed down with coke!  Keen to continue, we decided to start the walk back to Sasc Fura, heading over the 2 passes - a beautiful route.  After another drink at the hut, 40 minutes saw us back at the car and in search of dinner over the Italian border.  Nina was down in the Ticino for a couple of days, so with heavy eye-lids, our mission ended with a drive along the windy roads that lead via Lugano to Locarno - undoubtedly the most dangerous part of the day.

Reading back, it all sounds like one manic day, but it didn't feel that way, honest!  A good friend, a great route in a beautiful area, and the speed climbing systems we've been working on all came together to make for one memorable experience.  Looking forwards to getting back soon to try some of the many other enticing lines.