Jan 8

Posted by: Matt Spenceley
08 January 2010 

So far this winter, Lori and I have spent every day we could on skis, so I guess we were both feeling a little guilty about the lack of ice and mixed metres put in.  To start putting that right, we met today after a busy morning in the office (the Greenland spring season's fast approaching), and sitting in the trusty (bright yellow, ex-post office) Fiat Panda 4x4, headed for one of my favourite places, Rosenlaui.  Rising to the south of Meiringen, a series of stunning peaks rise sharply above the forested floor: the Engelhörner - a cirque of limestone spires;  the 700m walls of the Kleine Wellhorn and higher up and to the south the imposing north face of the Gross Scheidegg Wetterhorn.  As the peaks are so steep, the sun is denied for much of the winter, and so, even when the Oberhasli is still green, winter often has a strong footing up there.

Skinning in under snow-laden pines, we headed for the upper gorge where, around 5 years ago, I'd established a couple of nice lines, the left-most of which, picking a line up pockets and thin hooks to reach a dagger, neither of us had yet red-pointed.  We quickly got to work, shaking off the initial nervy lack of trust in sharp spikes on very small features.  The red-point went quite quickly for us both, Lorenz taking an unexpected whipper from the ice (hence the name: The Bird!).  After ascending and hauling the packs out, we headed for the road-head after a really enjoyable session in a beautiful, secluded part of the Berner Oberland.

Back in the valley, a weissbier and late supper have just finished off pretty much a perfect winter's day.

Gearing up at the base of the gorge

Lorenz climbing up to the base of the route

   Matt pulling onto the ice

The top section seemed bold 'til Lori discovered a couple of bolts covered by ice

Lori with the route in the bag - or so we thought!  Seconds later, he was flying.

Back in the valley after a cool day's climbing

Garro not looking too pleased that he was left at home (he and Nina are on avalanche duty this week)

Dana not looking very pleased either...