Feb 9

Posted by: Matt Spenceley
09 February 2010 

Unbelievably (more on that later), I climbed the mixed project first go!  My last post now seems staged, but 12 hours ago, I really didn't expect to be clipping the chain later in the day.  What a contrast to last week when I found every move extremely powerful.  Today, it seemed to go easily, and I was able to all-the-while enjoy the impressive scenery, especially once in amongst the fringe of 8-metre long icicles.  Only managed to shoot off some photos whilst belaying so will post some better ones once we head back up there. 

Dres Abegglen also came close to a redpoint, climbing the main roof in 2 sections.  It'll go the next time.

As for a name and grade, I've no clue on the former and can only make a guess at the latter; it's gonna be a guess in that I can only compare the ascent to others made several years ago when I was still using spurs.  Without hanging around from my heels, grading must take account of the loss of all of the rest points, calling for a great deal more burly power endurance.  I reckon something like M10; certainly not cutting-edge but a huge pleasure to climb and a route that has set the fires burning brighter to find further beautiful lines.

On Saturday, I'm off to Norway for a week's skiing, but temperatures at home look to remain low for the foreseeable future and there are some seriously enticing lines lying on the south side of the Oberhasli valley.  I'll hopefully have a chance to take a look when I get back.

Oh, on the unbelievable bit, shortly before starting to climb, Dres passed me an icescrew to protect myself once above the icicle fringe.  I took it without much belief I'd be using it.  10 minutes later, having placed the screw, I was left searching an alarmingly empty harness for a quickdraw.  An old carabiner had to suffice.  Go figure.

Dres heading for the first icicle.