Sep 3

Posted by: Matt Spenceley
03 September 2010 

 Bad weather after Al's and my trip to Hoy saw us first head for Aviemore only to then find a bad forecast there too.  After fish & chips, back on the road again, this time to Skye.  A couple of nice days there, one on the cracks of Neist Point (memories of belaying on the top whilst looking out to the Outer Hebrides all whilst a minke whale cruised back and forth, occasionally breaking the surface) and then a dash up Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillian.  Al was due back in Ireland so jumped on the train, whilst Ben Wilkinson and I headed for the sandstone crags of Reiff up in the NW, before getting in a quick ascent between the showers on the Old Man of Stoer.  The E1 running to the left of the classic route provided 2 beautiful pitches of offwidth and crack climbing after an extremely greasy traverse to the first stance.  It's a shame to see that someone's placed a bolt to set up the Tyrolean; makes life easier for sure, but that's not really the point and half the adventure of undertaking such great routes is in the logistics and access.  

Beads and Ben on Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillian

Climbing out of the notch after the abseil on Pinnacle Ridge

Beads running for his life.  The midges were horrific!

Ben approaching the summit of Sgurr nan Gillian

Matt on the tyrollean over to the Old Man of Stoer

Ben on the horribly greasy initial traverse pitch of the Old Man