Nov 3

Posted by: Matt Spenceley
03 November 2010 

So, after a hectic month out in the States, and an equally hectic few days back in the UK, time to get up a blog entry!

This past October was my first time in Yosemite, so I had both a lot to do and learn.  After a summer of UK trad climbing and expedition work in East Greenland (and next to no time clipping bolts on sport routes), my head was in the right space for run-outs and complex ropework but the big unknown was always going to be the infamous jamming and offwidth cracks of the Valley.  First up was the moderate classic Central Pillar of Frenzy with my good friends Michiel and Rixt - bit of a change of scene since our last climbing together, huh Michiel?!  Pitch upon pitch of magic cracks, from fingers up to offwidth.  Loved it!  Next up was one of the most monumental rain/thunderstorms I've ever experienced; it seemed to travel in a tight circle above our campsite for the whole night, rumbling and crashing away, occasionally hitting trees.  I was happy to be in my Rab Summit tent and not the cheap Walmart Mick and Rixt were cowering in!  The bad weather streak came to be a a feature of the last month; nothing for someone who's spent a season in North Wales, but by locals' account, a bit of a washout.

I'll put up some individual posts on some of the outstanding routes, but to start off, here are a couple of photos, including the Tuolumne Meadows classic, Lucky Streaks - what a route...

Small Yosemite rack.  Only 18 cams!

Michiel in the soon to-be-inundated Crane Flat campground (that's a bear box - none of those in Greenland!)

And then the rain came (and we ran for the diner in Lee Vining)

Chris, Pepa and John gearing up for Lucky Streak, Tuolumne

Lucky Streak, Fairview Dome, Tuolumne.  A stunning 6-pitch route that we climbed in 2 teams (the top pitch in the dark).  Continuously interesting and varied crack climbing with chicken heads thrown in for easier footwork...

Pepa finishing the crux pitch