Kulusuk, a tiny settlement on the East Coast of Greenland, is the start point for our snow shoe expedition on the edge of the Polar Circle, a trip that ventures deep into the surrounding wilderness.  Leaving the village behind, we’ll head northwards over the frozen sea ice of the fjords, working our way around icebergs to gain the seldom-explored fjords and mountainous islands north of Kulusuk.  Local Inuit hunters will accompany us, hauling the equipment by dogsleds, leaving us to travel with light day ‘packs.  Changeable weather and snow conditions mean that flexibility in our plan is essential.  The aim of this tour is to offer a deep insight into this other-wordly environment and the unique culture it has fostered; we’ll follow the ancient dogsled routes and in the evenings recount some of the many folktales that record the doings of a race millennia-old.  The expert polar guide leading the trip can share with you some of the many survival skills that the Inuit have used to thrive in this region.  

Accompanied by the excited yelping of several dozen huskies, we plan to break camp each day, before snow-shoeing into the unknown regions that lie ahead, leaving nothing behind but tracks in this stunning land and ice-scape. In the afternoon, after an unforgettable route that leads through valleys, over fjords and crosses snowy passes, we’ll establish a new camp.  The evening is left to enjoy a good meal and relax in the heated basecamp tent, all the while keeping an eye out for the ethereal fields of light that shimmer and dance over the night sky in these latitudes – the Aurora Borealis or Northern Lights.

This is a trip on which to utterly unwind.  Thanks to the moderate distances covered each day, there’s plenty of time to absorb what is to our mind one of the very most beautiful environments on Earth – a place that few have the privilege to experience.

East Greenland in Spring

Known as Tunu (translates as 'Land at the Back') by the Greenlandic Inuit, the name refers to the East Coast's extreme isolation - a vast arctic wilderness that supports a surprisingly rich population of animals, from seals and whales to polar bears. Of Greenland's population of 57,000, only 4000 live in a handful of settlement s on a coastline that runs 3000km from south to north. The first trading colony was only established in the 1890's, and to this day, the local population keep alive many of the ancient ways of life used to survive in this beautiful but severe environment.  

The land itself is squeezed between the Icecap that dominates Greenland’s interior and the frigid seas that carry the ice of the Arctic Ocean south on the East Greenlandic current.  The coastline is deeply incised by fjords and dominated by many thousands of glaciated mountains, many of which remain unclimbed.  

You will be flying from Iceland over the Denmark Strait to one of the outermost islands of the Tunu region.  As well as the 'international airport' (think snow strip and small arrivals building), Kulusuk island is also home to a tiny village, home to around 250, many of whom still still subsistence hunt.

In summer, the flora of the region briefly but spectacularly blooms, but in the months of winter and spring, the land is blanketed by snow, and the sea, a thick layer of ice.  Such hard conditions would suggest that this is a time to wait out the weather, but it’s precisely the cold that made this a great time of travel for the Inuit; communities and hunting grounds many miles away could be linked by the smooth surfaces of the frozen fjords -  the same conditions that open up the possibilities of this tour.

From the village, we'll travel out onto the sea ice of the fjords and explore further inland, around some of the many glaciated, mountainous islands that lie to the NW.

Greenland is a frontier country where weather, fast-changing environmental conditions and the easily-disrupted infrastructure can affect our tours.  After years of working in this environment, our experience often means that we can work around such factors, but it should be noted that changes to the itinerary may be necessary at any time.  

Day 1

Flight from your home country to Keflavik International Airport, Iceland (not included in price).  Overnight in a Reykjavik guesthouse.

Day 2

Fly by twin prop plane from Reykjavik over the Denmark Strait to Kulusuk, East Greenland.  Visibility allowing, stunning views of the pack ice and mountains – try to sit on the right-hand side of the plane!  The expedition guide will meet you at the snow strip.  We’ll be staying in a cosy, simple local-style house.  An afternoon checking over equipment and exploring the tiny village of Kulusuk.

Day 3

Snow shoes on, and we’ll head westwards on a narrow peninsula that leads into the partially frozen Angmagssalik Fjord, where we’ll gain fantastic views of the pack ice grinding together on tide.  The day is set aside to acclimatise to the arctic climate and look at some of the skills we’ll need when we leave the village behind.  Accommodation as the night before.

Day 4

An early start.  The dogsleds are packed with all the equipment and lashed down, before we leave civilisation behind and head out onto the thick ice of the fjord, the village shrinking in size until barely discernable.  It’s often only at this point that many people truly start to gain a sense of the vastness of the wilderness which we’re entering.  Over the meeting of fjords known as Tuno, we approach Apusiajiik Island.  Our first camp will be made within sight of the arena of calving ice cliffs where Apusiajiik Glacier drops vertically into the sea.  A hot meal followed by the first of many comfy evenings relaxing in the heated basecamp tent.

Day 5

After breakfast, camp is broken and re-packed onto the sleds.  The dogs break trail for us as we head inland, following a gradually ascending valley to a pass.  Throughout the day, we’ll be surrounded by a heavily glaciated mountain range, the summits of which rise in a series of jagged gneiss peaks.  Dropping northwards from the pass, the dog drivers will brake the sleds as we descend a slope that leads to an isolated bay, the site of a tiny hunter’s hut.  Such huts were built by the Inuit as accommodation on longer hunting trips.  In the vicinity, we’ll set up camp.  For those that want to, it may be possible to sleep ‘indoors’.  For those who want to, you can help the Inuit drivers care for the dogs, feeding them in the evening and preparing their sleeping place.

Day 6

Today, we'll follow the coastline of Apusiajiik northwards, making tracks through a narrowing of the fjord before we come out into Igterajip ima, a large waterway that will afford us views out to the open ocean and the massive icebergs that lie there.  With the right light conditions, the sense of vast space is stark - an icescape in a thousand shades of white stretching to the horizon.  Continuing on the level sea ice, our camp is marked by the glacier that drops towards sea level from the high peaks that rise above.  With the tents established, the heater on the go, and dinner cooking and a hot drink, there'll be plenty of time to look out for the Northern Lights.

Day 7

Northwestwards, the fjord of Ikasak is well-known for the upwellings of water that make for dangerous thin ice.  Before reaching this fjord, we'll thus follow the Inuit drivers over a section of low-lying land and well-frozen lakes to regain the coastline.  The day's objective is planned to allow plenty of time to take photos and explore.  The evening's camp is on a point that extends out into Angmagssalik fjord.This huge body of water often doesn't freeze.  In spring, the Inuit supplement their diet with mussels and if sea, and so the shore, is free of ice,  we hope to forage along the rock shore for dinner.

Day 8

Our northern-most point reached, we'll turn SW, following a narrow, steep-sided fjord that leads us into the interior of Apusijiik Island.  Leaving the sea ice behind for a couple of days, our route follows an ancient dogsled route through a valley dominated by a frozen lake.  After crossing a low pass, we'll drop down to sea level again, but instead of regaining the sea ice, we'll skirt the fjord and make camp on land at the base of yet another offshoot of the big glacier that covers much of Apusiajiik.  We're often visited by arctic foxes in this area, so all the food needs to be well locked up!  Snow conditions allowing, we may well build an igloo here and for the particularly adventurous, you can sleep there too - they're actually very comfortable!

 Day 9

Perhaps the highlight of this trip, today we'll ascend the slope behind camp and enter into breath-taking scenery atop the glacier.  With the guide leading the guide, we'll head for the heart of this huge body of ice.  Surrounded by big snowy peaks and with views down to the sea ice of the fjords below, we'll make camp in a quite unique site. 

Day 10

If the conditions allow, we'd love to ascend one of the many peaks that surround our camp.  There are several summits that can be reached after a gradually ascending walk and offer incredible, far-reaching 360 degree views, from the Denmark Strait and the coast running north and south, to the inland mountains ranges and the Icecap.  We'll also be able to retrace with our eyes the route we've followed over the last week.  Views that will be imprinted for a very long time.  After the high of the day, our camp, still standing from yesterday, awaits with hot meals.

Day 11

With the camp packed onto the sleds, all that remains to do is wait for the arrival of further dog teams from the village.  Today, instead of snow-shoeing, we'll all jump onboard and enjoy one last day out on the frozen fjords, this time travelling at a fast pace between the icebergs of Tuno, with only the sounds of the runners on the snow and the occasional howl from the dogs.  After days out in the wilderness of East Greenland, we'll spend our last night in a comfortable hotel, making use of the hot showers and taking the chance to celebrate the end of a great trip.

Day 12

Transfer through to the snow strip, a last farewell to your guide, before flying above the mountains and fjords that we've been exploring over the last weeks.  As the plane sets a course for Iceland, the pack ice thins, before finally opening completely  - the specks of floating ice being the only hint of another world that lies behind.  Arrival (and culture shock!) to Reykjavik and transfer to your guesthouse.  An evening to explore the capital of Iceland.

Day 13

Transfer to Keflavik International Airport, and the end of the trip.